New incarnation of Latham diner convenient, dependable – New York News

My tummy had been tamale-ed and frijole-ed and pummeled for weeks. There is nothing wrong with lively foods, but it was time for comfort food.


A diner to the rescue.

Dining companion Johnny P recalled we had recently visited the Circle Diner in Latham, but it was closed. Reopening as Diner Time, the polished silver of the original structure was still present but the glass bricks accented with red had been replaced with an entry in gentler hues of beige and turquoise.

The lot was nearly full, a good sign. But the only object that greeted us in the sparse new entryway was a dead congratulatory plant (the diner had opened in June) — not a welcoming sign.

We were met by the host and turned over to a staff member with two menus. As we walked, I noted a large glass case displaying the usual diner desserts: cheesecakes, crumb-topped pies, cookies, carrot cake, rice pudding.

Led to the large room on the left, the first thing I noticed was that instead of tables being sprinkled throughout the space, the room had been carved into at least a dozen high-sided booths — some large enough to accommodate six people. Designed for privacy, they repeated the soft beige and turquoise of the front of the diner.

Getting started

Although it was a particularly cool evening for early September, the air-conditioning was cranked up full blast. When I mentioned this to Lindsey, our server, she said she would take care of it — and did.

We both ordered soup. My cup of homemade chicken noodle ($2.75) arrived steaming and full of flavor from carrots, celery, onions, chicken and quarter-inch-wide noodles. Tiny glistening golden…

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